Kuakata: sunrise and sunset from the same beach

Kuakata, on the southern tip of Patuakhali, has a rare trick. Its long beach faces the Bay of Bengal in such a way that, on a clear day, you can watch the sun come up out of the sea in the morning and sink back into it in the evening, without changing beaches. That is why many Bangladeshis call it Sagor Konna, the daughter of the sea. It is calmer and less built-up than Cox's Bazar, which is exactly what makes it appealing.

Getting there now the road is shorter

For years Kuakata felt remote because of the river crossings on the way from Dhaka. Since the Padma Bridge opened, the road journey has become much shorter, and direct coaches now run from Dhaka to Kuakata, including overnight services that get you there for the morning.

There are other ways in, too:

• By coach: the simplest option, with day and night departures from Dhaka
• By launch: an overnight river launch from Dhaka's Sadarghat to Patuakhali or Barishal, then onward by road, which many people enjoy as part of the trip
• By air and road: fly to Barishal and drive the rest of the way
• By private car: comfortable for families, and handy for the side trips once you are there

Two full days in Kuakata is enough to see the main sights without rushing. Add a third if you want to slow down.

Sunrise at Gangamati, sunset on the main beach

For sunrise, head east before dawn to Gangamati (also written Ganga Moti), where the beach curves and a strip of forest runs behind the sand. Get there early, find a quiet spot, and watch the sky turn from grey to orange. In the winter months the sun rises over the water, which gives you the classic view.

For sunset, the western side of the beach is the place to be. Sit on the sand with a cup of tea as fishing boats come back in. Clear skies make all the difference, so check the weather and give yourself more than one evening if you can.

Ask your hotel what time sunrise is the night before, and leave earlier than you think. The best colour comes before the sun appears.

Fatrar Char and the coast around it

West of the main beach, across a river channel, lies Fatrar Char, a patch of mangrove forest that you reach by boat. It feels like a small taste of the Sundarbans, with tangled roots, birds and a quiet beach. Boats usually leave from the beach area, and the trip takes up most of a morning. Go with a licensed boat, wear the life jacket, and avoid crossings when the sea is rough.

Many visitors also hire a local motorbike rider for a tour of the coastline, taking in the beach, the forest edge and nearby points of interest. It is a fun way to cover the distances, but agree the route and the price before you start, and ask for a helmet.

The Rakhine villages and Buddhist temples

Kuakata is home to a long-established Rakhine community, and their villages are among the most interesting places to visit. The town takes its name from an old well, or kua, dug by Rakhine settlers, which you can still see near a Buddhist temple. At Mishripara, a little way out of town, a temple holds a very large Buddha statue.

Rakhine weavers make bright handloom cloth, shawls and bags, which are good, meaningful souvenirs. When you visit the villages and temples, dress modestly, remove your shoes where asked, keep your voice down and ask before you photograph anyone.

Fresh seafood and practical tips

In the evening, stalls along the beach set out the day's catch on ice: fish, prawns and crabs that are fried or grilled while you wait. Choose what looks freshest, confirm the price and the weight before it goes on the fire, and eat it hot by the sea.

• November to February usually brings the clearest skies and calmest sea
• Currents can be strong, so swim only in calm water, near other people, and never after dark
• Bring sunscreen, a hat and a light shawl for breezy winter evenings
• Carry your plastic away with you and keep the beach clean

Softway Travels can book a Kuakata trip with transport from Dhaka, a hotel near the beach and the side trips arranged, so all you have to do is wake up in time for sunrise.