Sajek via Khagrachari: caves, waterfalls and the jeep ride up

Sajek Valley belongs to Rangamati district, but almost everyone reaches it through Khagrachari. Many travellers treat Khagrachari as a place to change vehicles and nothing more. That's a shame, because a day spent around the town adds a cave, a waterfall and some lovely hill views to your trip, and it breaks a long journey into two comfortable halves.

A good way to plan the trip

Most people travel overnight from Dhaka by bus and arrive in Khagrachari in the morning. A relaxed plan for three days looks something like this:

1. Day one: Arrive in Khagrachari, rest, then visit Alutila cave and Risang waterfall. Stay the night in town.
2. Day two: Take the jeep up to Sajek with the escort, check in to your cottage, and watch the sunset from the ridge.
3. Day three: Climb Konglak for sunrise, enjoy the clouds over breakfast, then ride back down and head for Dhaka.

If you have only a weekend, you can go straight up to Sajek on arrival and see Khagrachari's sights on the way back. It is tiring, though, and the extra night makes a real difference.

Alutila cave and Risang waterfall

Alutila cave sits on a hill just outside Khagrachari town. It is a dark, narrow tunnel through the rock with cold water running along the floor, and you walk through it by the light of a torch or a burning mashal sold near the entrance. It is short, but it feels like a small adventure. Wear sandals with grip, roll up your trousers and keep your phone in a zip bag. The viewpoint near the cave looks out over the town and the hills, and is worth a few minutes before you go in.

Risang waterfall is reached by a walk down a steep path, then steps. Its water slides down a broad, sloping rock face, and in the rainy season it is at its fullest. The rock is very slippery, so be careful near the edge and don't let children climb on wet stone. The climb back up is the hard part; take water and go at your own pace.

The chander gari ride up to Sajek

The road from Khagrachari to Sajek runs through Dighinala and into the hills, with plenty of bends and steep climbs. Most visitors travel in a chander gari, an open-backed jeep that you hire as a group. Sitting in the back with the wind and the views is half the fun, but hold on tight on the turns.

For security, tourist vehicles usually travel in a convoy with an army escort at set times of day, both going up and coming down. If you miss the escort, you wait for the next one, so leave town in good time. The timings and access rules for the hill tracts change from time to time, and the road can occasionally close, so Softway Travels checks the current situation before you travel.

Carry your national ID card or passport. You may be asked to show it, and your driver may need your details for the escort.

Konglak hill and life in Sajek

Sajek's main road runs along a ridge lined with cottages and small cafés. Above it rises Konglak, the highest point in the area, reached by a short but steep walk from the end of the road. Go early for sunrise, when a sea of cloud often fills the valleys below. Bamboo sticks are sold at the start of the path, and they help on the way down.

Mobile signal and electricity can be limited, cottages fill up quickly at weekends, and nights can be cool, especially in winter. Our Sajek Valley tips cover these practical details in more depth.

Respecting the people who live here

Sajek and the hills around Khagrachari are home to several communities, including Lushai, Pangkhua and Tripura people. You are a guest in their villages, not in a theme park.

• Ask before photographing anyone, and accept a no with a smile.
• Keep music off and voices low, especially at night.
• Take all your rubbish back with you, and avoid single-use plastic.
• Dress modestly, and stay out of homes and gardens unless you are invited.
• Buy local food and handloom where you can, so your visit supports the people who live here.

Softway Travels can arrange your bus, the jeep, the cottage and a sensible pace for the whole trip. See our Sajek and Khagrachari package for a route that includes both.