Bandarban for first-timers: viewpoints, temples and falls

Bandarban is where Bangladesh turns into hill country. The roads climb and twist, clouds drift below the ridges, and the towns and villages belong to communities such as the Marma, Bawm, Tripura and Mro, each with their own language and traditions. For a first visit you do not need to trek far. Three or four days based in or near Bandarban town is enough to see the classic viewpoints, a beautiful temple and a waterfall or two.

The viewpoints: Nilachal and Nilgiri

Nilachal is the easy one, just a short drive from Bandarban town. It looks out over layers of hills, and it is a lovely place for sunset on your first evening, when you are still tired from the journey.

Nilgiri is the big one. It sits high on the road towards Thanchi, and on a good morning you look down on a sea of cloud with the hills poking through like islands. Many people stop at Chimbuk on the way, another high point with wide views. Nilgiri has cottages, which are popular and fill quickly in the cool season, so ask us early if you want to stay up there for sunrise.

The Golden Temple and Shoilo Propat

The Buddha Dhatu Jadi, widely known as the Golden Temple, stands on a hilltop near the town. It is a working Theravada Buddhist temple, not just a sight, so treat it with care:

• Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
• Take your shoes off where asked.
• Keep your voice low, and do not climb on statues or railings for photos.
• Check whether photography is allowed in each area, and respect the times visitors may enter.

Shoilo Propat is a small waterfall right beside the main hill road, which makes it an easy stop. It is at its fullest after the rains. Women from the nearby Bawm village often sell handwoven cloth here, which makes a thoughtful souvenir. The Meghla park near town, with its lake and hanging bridge, is a gentle extra for families.

Getting there and getting around

Most people take an overnight coach from Dhaka, or travel via Chattogram, and arrive in Bandarban town in the morning. From there, the hills are explored by road.

The local jeep, known as the chander gari, is the classic way to reach the viewpoints. It is an open-backed vehicle with bench seats, built for steep roads. Hired cars and microbuses also run on the main routes. A few tips for the hill roads:

1. Hold on and sit facing forwards if you get travel sick, since the bends are constant.
2. Avoid driving after dark on remote stretches where possible.
3. Carry some cash, because mobile networks and card machines can be patchy outside town.
4. Plan for slower travel than the map suggests.

Permissions and closures

This is the most important part of planning. Some areas of the Bandarban hills, especially further out towards Ruma, Rowangchhari and Thanchi, can require registration with the authorities or a registered local guide, and access to certain routes has been restricted or closed at times for security reasons. Rules can change at short notice, sometimes from week to week.

The main viewpoints near town are usually open, but do not set your heart on a remote spot without checking first. Softway Travels checks the current access rules when you book, and plans an alternative if an area is closed. If you are thinking of a trek, read our guide to the Boga Lake and Keokradong trek first.

In the hill tracts, you are a guest. Ask before you photograph people, take your rubbish back with you, and keep the music off.

When to go

The best season is usually October to February. The air is clear and cool, the roads are dry, and the morning cloud views from Nilgiri are at their best. Nights can be cold at height, so pack a warm layer.

The monsoon, from around June to September, turns the hills an incredible green and fills the waterfalls, but rain brings slippery paths and the risk of landslides, and some roads become difficult. Spring is warm and dry, with hazier views. Weekends and public holidays are busy at every time of year, so book rooms and transport early.

Our Bandarban package covers the classic viewpoints and sights for a first visit, and you can add the canyon trip on our Debotakhum package if access is open. Softway Travels can plan the route, check the current rules and book it all for you.