Debotakhum: rafting through Bandarban's hidden gorge

Most people come to Bandarban for the viewpoints, the clouds and the long jeep rides along the ridges. Debotakhum is the opposite experience. Instead of looking down at the hills, you slip inside them, lying on a bamboo raft as it drifts through a narrow pool between rock walls so close and so tall that the daylight turns green. It is quiet, cool and unlike anywhere else in the country.

What a khum is

In the hill tracts, a khum is a deep pool of water trapped in a gorge, usually where a hill stream has cut down through the rock. Debotakhum is one of the best known. The water is deep and still, the walls are lined with moss and ferns, and the pool winds so you cannot see the far end from the entrance. Local stories give the place a sacred feel, which is where the name comes from.

Getting there from Roangchhari

Debotakhum lies in Roangchhari upazila, a drive from Bandarban town. The usual pattern looks like this:

1. Travel from Dhaka to Bandarban town, usually by overnight coach
2. Drive on to Roangchhari by hired car, CNG or local transport
3. Register your group at the checkpoints along the way, carrying your national ID card or passport
4. Meet a registered local guide, which is normally required for this route
5. Walk the last part on foot along a stream bed, crossing water and rocks, before you reach the pool

The walk is not technical, but it is slippery and you will get wet up to your knees or higher, so take it slowly. Access in the hill tracts can change at short notice, and some areas need permission or close entirely for a while. Softway Travels checks the current position before your trip and plans the day around it.

The bamboo raft ride

At the mouth of the khum, local boatmen keep simple bamboo rafts. You lie or sit on the raft and move along the pool, either pushed by your guide or pulling yourself forward along the rock. As you go deeper, the walls rise above you, the sounds of the outside world fade and the air feels several degrees cooler.

The rafts are narrow and wobble easily, so keep your weight low and centred. Put your phone and camera in a waterproof pouch, and do not try to stand up for a photograph.

Wear the life jacket, even if you swim well. The water in the khum is deep and cold, and the rock walls give you nothing to hold.

When to go, and when it closes

The most comfortable time is usually from late autumn through winter, once the monsoon has passed. The water level is steadier, the stream walk is easier and the weather is pleasant for walking. Weekends in winter can get crowded, so a weekday visit is calmer.

During the monsoon, and after any heavy rain, the stream can rise very quickly and the gorge becomes dangerous. In these conditions the local authorities often close Debotakhum to visitors, and a good guide will turn back without arguing. Never try to enter on your own when the water is high or rising.

What to bring and how to behave

• Sandals or shoes with good grip that can get wet, not flip-flops
• Quick-drying clothes and a full change for afterwards
• A waterproof pouch or dry bag for your phone, ID and cash
• Drinking water and a light snack, plus a small bag for your rubbish
• Your national ID card or passport, with photocopies

The villages around Roangchhari are home to indigenous communities, and the khum is part of their landscape. Dress modestly, keep your voice down, ask before photographing people, and do not play loud music. Carry every wrapper and bottle back with you, because plastic left on the rocks washes straight into the stream.

If you are new to the area, our guide to Bandarban for first-timers covers the rest of the district. Softway Travels can book a Debotakhum trip with transport, a registered guide and life jackets arranged, or combine it with the viewpoints on a wider Bandarban tour.