Sikkim from Bangladesh: Gangtok, high lakes and permits

Sikkim is the Himalaya at its most approachable for Bangladeshi travellers: a small Indian state of monasteries, prayer flags and tidy mountain towns, within a day's journey of our northern border. The catch is that much of it lies in sensitive border areas, so where you can go depends on permits. Sort those out first and the rest of the trip falls into place.

Permits come first

Foreign nationals need a permit to enter Sikkim, and further permits for protected areas such as Tsomgo Lake and North Sikkim. The rules for foreigners are different from those for Indian tourists, they can differ by nationality, and they change. As a general picture:

• The entry permit is usually checked at the Rangpo checkpost as you arrive from West Bengal.
• Protected areas are usually only open to foreigners travelling as a group with a registered local tour operator.
• Some border areas, including the Nathula pass, have generally been closed to foreign tourists.
• Carry several passport and visa copies and spare photos, as permits are checked at more than one point.

Because permits decide the whole itinerary, they are the first thing we check when you plan Sikkim with us.

Plan the permits, then the places. It saves you a wasted day at a checkpost.

Getting there

You'll need an Indian visa. Most travellers head for Siliguri, either by road through a northern land border such as Burimari–Changrabandha, or by flying to Bagdogra, usually with a connection. From there it's a mountain drive to Gangtok, following the Teesta river for much of the way. Make sure your visa allows the entry point you plan to use.

Allow enough time. Gangtok, Tsomgo Lake and a night in North Sikkim make a comfortable week once you count the drive up from the border, and adding Darjeeling needs a few days more. Squeezing it shorter usually means long days in a jeep and too little time to adjust to the height.

Gangtok

Gangtok is the base for almost every Sikkim trip. MG Marg, the car-free main street, is spotless and lively in the evenings, lined with cafés, bakeries and shops. Within easy reach are Rumtek Monastery, the ropeway over the town and viewpoints where, on a clear morning, Kanchenjunga fills the skyline.

At monasteries, dress modestly, walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels, keep your voice low and ask before photographing monks. Give yourself at least a full day in Gangtok before going higher; it helps your body adjust.

Tsomgo Lake and North Sikkim

Tsomgo Lake, also known as Changu, is a glacial lake in the mountains above Gangtok, ringed by steep slopes and, in winter and spring, snow. The road climbs quickly and the lake sits well above 3,000 metres. It's a day trip from Gangtok, subject to permits and weather.

North Sikkim is the wilder side of the state. Most trips spend a night in the village of Lachung, then drive up to the Yumthang Valley, known for rhododendrons in spring and snow in winter. Roads are rough, journeys are long, and landslides after heavy rain can close them at short notice, so keep your plans flexible.

Altitude and warm clothes

Tsomgo and Yumthang are both high enough for altitude to matter. A few simple rules help:

1. Go up gradually, and don't rush around on arrival.
2. Drink plenty of water and go easy on heavy meals at height.
3. If you get a bad headache, dizziness or breathlessness, tell your guide and come down.
4. If you have heart or lung conditions, talk to your doctor before you travel.

Even outside winter, pack properly:

• A warm padded or down jacket
• Thermal layers, gloves, a woollen hat and thick socks
• Waterproof shoes with good grip
• Sunglasses and sunscreen for the glare off snow
• Regular medicines and a small first-aid kit

Softway Travels can plan your Sikkim trip around the permits that apply to your passport, or combine it with tea gardens and the toy train in our Sikkim and Darjeeling holiday. We check the current rules when you book, so your days are spent in the mountains rather than at a checkpost.